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How to Prepare for Termite Fumigation: The Full Checklist

Getting your house tented? Here's the complete prep checklist — what to bag, what to remove, who to call, and what has to happen before you can go back in.

Whole-structure fumigation is the right call when drywood termites have spread beyond what spot treatment can reach — and it goes smoothly when the prep is done right. Here's the complete checklist, in the order most people need it.

The week before

  • Schedule your gas shutoff. The gas utility must turn service off before tenting and restore it after — book the appointment as soon as your fumigation date is set.
  • Plan 2–3 nights out for everyone: people, pets, and houseplants — including aquarium fish. Nothing living stays inside the tent.
  • Coordinate anything attached to the house — fences, trellises or shared structures the crew will need to work around; your fumigator will walk you through specifics.

Food and medicine: the bagging rule

Anything you'd put in your mouth either leaves the house or gets double-bagged in the special Nylofume bags your fumigator provides. The exceptions: items still factory-sealed in unopened metal cans or unopened glass jars can stay as-is. Everything else — opened packages, refrigerator and freezer contents, pet food, medications, even toothpaste — gets bagged or goes with you.

The day before

  • Double-bag or remove all food, medications and pet food per the rule above
  • Unlock and open interior doors, cabinets, closets, and the attic hatch so the fumigant can reach everywhere and air back out
  • Remove plants from the house and water the soil in a band around the foundation — moisture protects your landscaping's roots
  • Trim shrubs and branches back from the walls so the tent can seal to the ground
  • Remove or open any plastic-covered mattresses and pillows per your fumigator's instructions
  • Hand over keys and confirm contact numbers with the crew

What happens while you're out

The crew tents the structure, introduces the fumigant, holds it for the prescribed exposure period, then aerates the building thoroughly. You come home only after the fumigator measures the air and posts the re-entry clearance — that certification step is required of every licensed fumigation crew in California, and it's not optional or rushable.

After the tent comes off

Two honest things to know. First, the fumigant is a true gas — it disperses during aeration and leaves no surface residue, which is why there's nothing to wipe down when you return. Second, that also means it leaves no ongoing protection: fumigation eliminates the drywood termites present that week, not the swarmers that may arrive next season. A written warranty and periodic inspections are what keep you covered going forward.

And if your infestation is still localized, remember there's often a smaller answer: I recommend targeted spot treatment over tenting whenever the evidence supports it. Ask for an honest assessment before committing either way.

Quick Answers

Quick Answers.

How long do I have to be out of my house for fumigation?

Typically two to three nights: tenting and exposure, then aeration, then the fumigator's air-measurement and posted re-entry clearance. You return only after that certification — the timing is set by the process, not by convenience.

What food has to be bagged for fumigation?

Everything openable: opened packages, fridge and freezer contents, pet food, medications, toothpaste. Items still factory-sealed in unopened metal cans or unopened glass jars may stay. Your fumigator supplies the Nylofume bags — double-bag per their instructions.

Do I need to turn off the gas before tenting?

Yes — the gas utility shuts service off before the tent goes up and restores it afterward. Book that appointment with your utility as soon as your fumigation is scheduled; it's the step people most often leave too late.

Does fumigation leave a residue in the house?

No. The fumigant is a gas that disperses during aeration, leaving no surface residue — nothing needs washing when you return. The flip side: it also leaves no residual protection, so a warranty and periodic inspections matter afterward.

Do I really need to fumigate, or is there a smaller option?

It depends on spread. Localized drywood infestations can often be handled with targeted spot treatment at a fraction of the disruption. Fumigation is the honest answer when colonies are widespread through the structure — an inspection settles which situation you have.

About the Author

Joshua is the owner and licensed operator of ExterMetro Termite and Pest Control in Arcadia, CA. He holds California SPCB Company Registration #8828 (Branch 2 & 3), is a licensed WDO inspector, and has worked San Gabriel Valley homes and businesses for over twelve years — doing every inspection and treatment himself.

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